3,800m above sea level – we were standing above the clouds. This volcano has not exploded in 800 years but undoubtedly retains its majesticism. It took an hour to climb to the top of the crater from the lake at the bottom, rumoured by the locals to be bottomless. It’s actually some 200km deep. It takes 6 hours to walk outside the edge of the crater. The altitude is such that it is a struggle to walk with any sense of normality. A truly remarkable place.